Legendary Watches – Patek Philippe Calatrava

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227, Image: Fratello Watches

Ask a watch collector about the most famous dress watch and there’s a very good chance the answer will be ‘Patek Philippe Calatrava‘. This icon was introduced by Patek Philippe in 1932 and – except for dimensions – retained its classic appeal on the wrist of its owners ever since. A classic, sleek, and elegant watch on a thin leather strap. But first and foremost: sophisticated, without the need for any complications or even grand complications. Time only, a date perhaps.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196

One thing that did change over the years was the dimension of the case. Only slowly, of course, as Patek Philippe don’t ‘do’ trends. A mere 33 mm or even smaller, that’s how the Calatrava appeared on the wrist of its buyers for most of its existence. It wasn’t until a few years ago – when Patek Philippe introduced us to the reference 5227 – that they increased the diameter to 39 mm. It must have led to frowning eyebrows among Patek Philippe collectors and owners. And if that wasn’t enough already, the 5227 is also the first reference to have a display back. However, there is little to criticize about this watch, as it still represents the key values of the Calatrava. Although some Calatrava aficionados probably wholeheartedly disagree, we think this 39 mm reference 5227 is as sophisticated as the very first Calatrava. It will become, or remain, an icon

One of our own favorite Patek Philippe Calatrava models, however, is the reference 5196. This 37mm diameter timepiece will suit everyone’s wrist, from small to large. It has the classic Calatrava lay-out with stunning polished dauphine hands and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. No date, of course. The case back is solid gold (either white, yellow, or rose gold). As written before, Patek Philippe don’t want to get involved in ‘trends’, but more importantly, they were of the opinion that the movement should only concern a watch maker when it is serviced every once in a while. The reference 5227 does have a display back, and Patek Philippe fans and aficionados of beautiful movements are happy that they decided to put a sapphire crystal on the back. The Calatrava 5196, on the other hand, is ‘old school’ and allows no peeking at the movement.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5116R

It is a thin watch (8 mm) and looks best on an elegant alligator strap with a pin buckle. The movement inside – although not visible – is the caliber 215 PS, which needs to be manually wound for approximately 42 hours of power reserve.

If you want a date and a sapphire case back, another option would be the reference 5127. The 37mm version of the 5227 so to speak, with an elegant case, a date, and central seconds on its dial. Due to the fact that the 5127 has an automatic movement (caliber 324 SC, like the Nautilus), the case is a bit thicker at 9.5 mm.

Note that you will be able to find a beautiful vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava for a fraction of the amount of a new reference 5227 or a 5196, but make sure to keep track of the size of these pieces. A nice 1980s Calatrava approaches the beautiful 5196 in elegance, but a 33mm diameter may feel a bit small on the wrist these days.